Power Inverter

New Product Alert!!!

2011-02-14T14:16:00.000-08:00

Samlex SSW Series Pure Sine Wave Power Inverters

Have you heard? Samlex America has introduced a new line of pure sine wave inverters. The new extremely affordable SSW series pure sine wave inverters are packed with features and sport a lightweight aluminum case with cool surface technology and a fresh sleek look.

They are available in the following sizes:
· SSW-350-12A – 350 Watts Continuous with a 700 Watt Surge
· SSW-600-12A – 600 Watts Continuous with a 1200 Watt Surge
· SSW-1000-12A – 1000 Watts Continuous with a 2000 Watt Surge
· SSW-1500-12A – 1500 Watts Continuous with a 3000 Watt Surge
· SSW-2000-12A – 2000 Watts Continuous with a 4000 Watt Surge

All of the “SSW” series inverters rated above 1000 watts come with an included LCD remote panel. This remote will keep you informed with the easy to read digital LCD backlight display.

The remote display will monitor the following:
· Input Voltage from DC source.
· Output Power
· Input Fault Indicator
· Output Fault Indicator
· ZZZ Sleep Mode
· 5% Total Harmonic Distortion

The SSW series by Samlex has been designed with the user in mind. Its compact design makes for easy installation in just about any vehicle. Standard features found on all of the SSW series inverters are:

· USB Charging Port
· High Surge
· Pure Sine Wave Output
· Soft Start Capability
· Low Interference Technology
· Universal Circuit Protection
· Thermal Protection
· Under/Over Voltage Protection
· Overload Protection
· Short Circuit Protection
· Earth Fault
· Cool Surface Technology

The SSW-350-12 & SSW-600-12 include cables for easy connection to the battery. However, for the larger inverters cables are not included. The SSW series inverters above 1000 Watts all have built in GFCI protection.

For more in-depth product information feel free to check out the resource links to the product pages below. For information on purchasing these fine Samlex products please visit our website at:

http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/puresine.html

Resources:

SSW-350-12 - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ssw_350.html
SSW-600-12 - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ssw_600.html
SSW-1000-12 - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ssw_1000.html
SSW-1500-12 - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ssw_1500.html
SSW-2000-12 - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/ssw_2000.html

SSW Remote - http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/samlex/ssw_r1_12_lg.jpg

Selection,Preparation, and Installation of a Power Inverter for an Automotive Application

2010-10-13T15:39:00.000-07:00

Selection,Preparation, and Installation of a Power Inverter for an Automotive Application
By. Jon Hardwick

Summary:

In this article we will discuss how to select the appropriate power inverter for your application and your vehicle. We will also provide an overview on preparing for an installation, actual installation of the inverter, and what situations warrant the use of additional accessories such as battery isolators, fuses, and DC breakers.

Selection

When selecting a power inverter for use in your vehicle you must have an idea of what you are trying to operate in your car or truck. Are you trying to provide power for a mobile office, a gaming system, tools, or just to have some emergency power. The process is pretty much the same in all applications with one exception; whether or not to choose a pure sine wave inverter or a modified sine inverter. This can be tricky if you don’t know what kind of loads you will be running. That is why planning is crucial to selecting the right inverter. For example, let’s say for the sake of argument that you will be sizing this system for a mobile office. You are looking to run a laptop computer, all-in-one laser printer, wireless router, modem, and some miscellaneous rechargeable devices. Refer to the list below for specifications:

· Lenovo ThinkPad – 2.0A
· Brother All-In One Laser Printer/Fax/Copier/Scanner – 8.8A
· Linksys Wireless Router – 1.0A
· ClearWire WIMAX modem – 1.0A
· Smartphone - .02A

Total requirement for all of the devices running at the same time is 12.82A or 1474.3 Watts. It is recommended to size the unit 25% above the actual requirement, bringing the total to 1842 Watts. Since you won’t find a power inverter rated exactly at 1842W you will need to find the closest unit by rounding to the total to the nearest thousand; which would be a 2000W. Now that we have determined what size we will need to power all of the devices we need to decide what output waveform we will need for this application. Since we will be dealing with a laser printer we need to select a pure sine wave.

(Note: We arrive at this conclusion based on my experience and the research I have conducted on this type of application. For most, this would take some research or simply trial and error. But there you go, I have cut out the time it would have taken you to research the waveform required for the laser printer. FYI, if you want to know why they don’t work on modified sine it has to do with the fuser and laser unit.)

Pure sine wave is a guarantee that you will not have any problems down the road with any device. Modified sine wave will work with most everything except sensitive electronics, medical devices, and variable speed motors.

Additionally, selecting a pure sine wave will not interfere with the radio in either the wireless router or WiMax modem. This is important if you want to get Internet in your vehicle. We have heard reports that if you use a wireless router on modified sine wave it significantly slows the speed of data transfer. However, with the exception of the laser printer all of the remaining devices would work on modified sine wave it’s just not recommended. Pure sine wave should be used on all battery integrated devices as it will not affect the battery life of the devices.

Now that we know what size inverter is required and what type we need. We can move forward with what will be required for planning the installation and moving toward the actual installation.
Vehicle Assessment

Before installation we need to ask a few questions about the vehicle the inverter will be installed in. For this example we will use a Ford F-150. The information we need off the vehicle is alternator size, location where the inverter will be installed, and whether or not we need to upgrade or add additional batteries.

First, let’s take a look at our alternator and figure out what size we have. For the 2004 Ford F150 there is a 130A alternator. Not bad, this alternator should not have a problem keeping up with the continuous loads we have. Now let’s look at the battery. In most cases you will find a heavy duty starting battery under the hood of a stock Ford F-150. This is a problem. We have a couple of choices pertaining to replacing this battery. Since the battery is in decent condition one could simply leave the battery alone and not replace it until it has been cycled past the threshold. Or, replace it now with a dual purpose deep cycle battery. The choice is ultimately yours. My opinion is to do it right, and do it once. A single battery configuration for this application would be all you would need to get rolling if you plan on using the system mostly while the vehicle is running and with minimal printing. However, for this example, let’s say that we are going to use the equipment a lot while the vehicle is not running and with some moderate printing and scanning. This would require the addition of a second “Auxiliary” battery. We will address this in just a moment. Since we have decided to install a second battery, and will upgrade the starting battery we need to determine the best place for the inverter to be installed. In this case, under the rear seat is the best place to locate the inverter. This provides the best central location to both the starting battery and the auxiliary battery which will be located in the bed.

Auxiliary Battery Installation

Choosing to install a second battery for this application is the best choice for a couple of reasons. It will help to absorb the surge from the printer, be closer to the inverter, and provide a longer run time for the mobile office equipment. Now we must decide whether or not to install a battery isolator. For this application one is not required since the starting battery will be replaced with a dual purpose deep cycle battery. For installations where replacing the starting battery is not an option an isolator would be required. If you wanted to add an isolator to this system you would simply size it around the size of the alternator and use this chart to determine which one is required for the vehicle.

Installation & Running cables

Now for the fun part, running the cables to the inverter. For the example we have outlined in this article we will need to run a cable from the battery under the hood to the auxiliary battery in the bed. We would choose to run the cable from the starting battery to the bed by running along the frame of the vehicle and drilling through the bottom of the bed, then running another cable to the inverter by drilling a hole in the back or bottom of the cab (whichever option you choose). Once the cables have been run they will need to be secured tight to the frame and away from any exhaust components as this could melt the coating on the cables or create a potentially dangerous situation later as you’re vehicle is in motion.

Fuses & Safety

Quick note about fuses and DC breakers, it is good practice to install a fuse or breaker in every inverter installation on a vehicle. However, there are some installations that don’t absolutely require a fuse. One example is; installation inside a van where the inverter is installed right next to the sealed AGM battery. This is fine as long as there is no possibility of the battery cables being damaged. My personal opinion on fusing is to install a fuse just in case. It is really good insurance and they are relatively cheap.

Sweet! We now have power in our truck. We can run our mobile office and help our clients while on the road. By installing this inverter and adding power we have accomplished adding a computer, printer, and a wireless Internet hot spot. The possibilities are absolutely endless.

If you have any questions about this article or you would like to learn more feel free to shoot me an e-mail at: jon@donrowe.com

New Product Alert!

2010-10-12T12:03:00.000-07:00

Goal Zero Portable Solar Products

DonRowe.Com would like to announce the recent addition of the Goal0 portable solar products to our website. You can find them at the following URL:

http://www.donrowe.com/portable_solar/portable_solar.html

The products we will be carrying include the following:

Goal0 Elite Series:

· Sherpa 120 Battery
· Sherpa 50 Battery
· Sherpa UI Inverter
· Nomad 27M Solar Panel
· Nomad 13.5M Solar Panel

The Elite Series is a scalable solution that can be configured to provide power for your small rechargeable devices such as a Laptop computer, Smart Phone, Portable Navigation and Camera Equipment. The Elite Series is a must for any outdoor enthusiast.

Goal0 Escape Series:

· Scout 150 Battery
· Escape 30M Solar Panel

The Escape Series is a versatile, rugged portable solar solution that can be used for power anywhere. The handles on this system make it very easy to carry and the compact size makes for easy storage in an RV, or car. This beats the heck out of a standard power pack or jump starter.

Goal0 Extreme Series:

· Boulder 30M Solar Panel
· Boulder 15M Solar Panel
· Ranger UI Inverter
· Ranger 350 Battery

The Goal0 Extreme series is the largest portable solar system on the market. This system can be configured to produce enough power for an entire base camp in the Himalayas if needed. No need to pack a generator to recharge those radios or cameras anymore.

If you have any questions about this product please contact us at 1-800-367-3019.

For more information about the Goal0 Company please visit their site at: http://www.goal0.com/about/

What do these "specs" mean?

2010-10-05T13:42:00.000-07:00

Power Inverter Specification Breakdown:

What do these “Specs” mean? This is a question that comes up quite often and quite frankly if you do not work in the industry or have some sort of electrical background, can make selecting the right inverter pretty confusing. So let’s talk about the terminology and work our way through the specifications. While reviewing and contrasting the specifications between multiple inverters you will come across some very specific terms as well as some broad ones. Here is a list of terms you may come across while shopping for an inverter.

Maximum Efficiency – This indicates how much battery power is lost during the power inversion process.
No Load Draw (Switch Off) – This indicates how much power while idle the inverter is drawing with the power switch off.
No Load Draw (Switch On) – This indicates how much power while idle the inverter is drawing with the power switch on.
Output Wave Form – This indicates what waveform the inverter is producing. Typically, Modified, Square, or True/Pure Sine.
Total Harmonic Distortion – Refers to how much “Noise” is emitted from the output of the inverter.
Input Voltage – Indicates what the rated input voltage is, or indicates the rated input voltage range.
Output Voltage – Indicates what the rated output voltage is and in some cases what the voltage is regulated at.
Low Voltage Alarm – Indicates the input voltage at which the audible alarm will sound.
Low Voltage Shut Down – Indicates the input voltage at which the unit will shut off.

Overload Shutdown – Indicates whether this protection is available. (Yes or No)

Thermal Shutdown - Indicates whether this protection is available. (Yes or No)
Short Circuit Shutdown - Indicates whether this protection is available. (Yes or No)
Reverse Polarity Protection - Indicates whether this protection is available. (Yes or No)
AC Back feed Protection - Indicates whether this protection is available. (Yes or No)
Transfer Relay Rating – Indicates the current rating for the transfer switch (Not applicable to most standalone inverters)
Transfer Relay Time – Indicates how quick the transfer occurs once voltage drops on the AC input.
Continuous Output Power – Indicates how much power the inverter will produce continuously.
Peak Output Power – Often referred to as “Surge”, Indicates how high the unit will surge for starting heavy inductive loads.
Frequency – Indicates how fast the output voltage is flipping and flopping. (in the US 60hz is the standard for all appliances)
AC Regulation – Indicates how much deviation from the rated output the unit is allowed.
Operating Temperature – Indicates the temperature range in which the unit will operate properly at maximum efficiency.
Regulatory Compliance – Lists the UL, ETL and CSA standards the unit meets or is certified to.
AC Receptacle Type – Indicates what type of receptacle is installed on the inverter.

Now that we have identified the terms listed in the specifications of a standalone inverter we can break them down further by looking at an example product page of an inverter.

Product Page Comparison:

http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/cobra_2500.html

The Breakdown:

Maximum efficiency 88% - This is basically stating that the inverter will lose 12% through the process of inverting. In other words, the unit is using 12% of the available battery to operate while inverting. Ideally, you are looking for a unit that has a high efficiency rating. The highest this author has seen is 96%. This unit appears to be a touch below average (90%). You will also find that with higher efficiency comes higher cost.

No-load draw <0.6> – This figure represents that the Cobra 2500 uses less than .6 amps DC in idle with the switch on. You will find inverters that give ratings for the remote on as well as with the remote off. For the most part 99% of the inverters are listing this rating for no load draw while the switch is in the on position. Again, remember the lower the rating the better.

Output Wave Form Modified Sine Wave – This is telling us that the unit produces a modified sine wave.

Input Voltage Range 12V (10.4vdc – 14.4vdc) – The figure represented here indicates that this unit has a voltage input rating for the low end of 10.4 volts DC and a high end of 14.4 volts DC. When sizing your inverter for use with a vehicle you will need to take your vehicles alternator output into consideration when selecting a power inverter. This inverter would work for most vehicles. However, the newer GM vehicles (2007 – Present) produce up to 15.5 volts DC. Just something to keep in mind while sizing your inverter.

Output Voltage Range 115vac 60hz – This Specification is pretty much standard for all inverters used in the US with US appliances. You will not see any deviation from this except on European (230vac, 50hz) inverters.

Low Voltage Alarm 10.5 +/- 0.3vdc – This is when the alarm will sound indicating it is close to shutting down due to low battery. Notice the +/- voltage, this represents the deviation from 10.5vdc.

Low Voltage Shutdown 9.5 +/- 0.3vdc – This is the voltage at which the unit will shut down.

Overload Shutdown YES – This indicates the unit does protect against an overload fault condition.

Thermal Shutdown YES – This indicates the unit does protect against an over temperature fault condition

Short Circuit Shutdown YES – This indicates that the unit will not become damaged from a short circuit in the AC wiring.

Reverse Polarity YES – This indicates that the unit will not become damaged when the DC cables are hooked backwards. This believe it or not occurs fairly often and selecting a power inverter with this protection is a great idea.

AC Receptacles 3 – This tells us that the unit has three AC receptacles. Also, note that it does not state GFCI. Some inverters will have GFCI protection. Typically this would be found on a marine grade inverter.

Warranty 2 Years – Length of warranty from manufacturer.

Inverter Weight 6.6 Lbs. – Weight of the unit without packaging materials.

Shipping Weight 9 Lbs. – Weight of the unit with all packaging from the manufacturer.

Product Dimensions 10.75"x 9.75"x 3.5" – Physical dimensions of the inverter.

This pretty much covers breaking down a basic inverter specifications chart. You should now have a general understanding of what some of these terms represent and the importance of the specifications. Don’t be intimidated by these terms and should you have any questions after reading this post, feel free to get in touch with me using any of the following methods:

Twitter: @donrowecom (Yes, I respond to our Twitter as well)
E-Mail: jon@donrowe.com
Toll Free: 1-800-367-3019

Important Links for Key Terms:

Inverter - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverter_(electrical)
Pure Sine Wave - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sine_wave
Frequency - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency
Short Circuit - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Short_circuit
Electrical Efficiency - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_efficiency
Total Harmonic Distortion - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_harmonic_distortion

Inverter Cooling Fans

2009-07-22T12:34:00.000-07:00

A question that we get quite often is what inverters have a thermal fan and which do not. The purpose of this article is to address the different fan types. There are three different fan types that are offered on inverters. They are Continuous, Load Controlled, and Thermal.

First, lets discuss the most common fan type; continuous. Continuous fans run all of the time regardless of temperature and load. This is the most cost effective option for manufacturers as this does not require the addition of thermal sensors and controllers. Here is a list of inverters i am aware of that include continuous fans:

Wagan

Wagan 1000

Wagan 1250

Wagan 1500

Wagan 2000

Wagan 3000

Wagan 5000

Wagan 8000

Xantrex

Duracell 1000

Duracell 1500

Samlex

VR400

VR800

VR1000

VR1500

VR2000

VR3000

Next we will discuss the load controller fans, these fans operate much like the continuous fans with one key difference; they only operate while a load is applied to the inverter. They will not run while sitting idle. The advantage to this type of fan option is that the no load draw is generally much lower when the inverter does not have a load applied. This is nice for applications where you are running a momentary load such as a sump pump.

Here is a list of inverters that i am aware of that have the load controlled fan:

Cobra

Cobra 400

Cobra 800

Cobra 1000

Cobra 1500

Cobra 2500

Voltec

VTC200

VTC400

VTC750

VTC1000

VTC1500

VTC2000

VTC3000

We will now discuss thermal fans. This is the best option in my opinion. The thermal fans will engage and disengage as needed. This will maximize fan life as well as provide a lower no load draw on the system. This fan option is usually found on all of the higher end inverters and inverter/chargers. You will find this type of fan on the following product lines:

Xantrex

PROsine Series

PROwatt Series

PROwatt SW Series

Freedom 458 Series

Freedom HF Series

XS Series

IP Series

Trace Series

XPower Plus Series

XPower Micro Series

Duracell 3000

Magnum

MM Series

MMS Series

ME Series

MS Series

MS-AE Series

RD Series

Samlex

PSE Series

PST Series

InverCharge

Cotek S Series

Cotek SK Series

Cotek ST Series

Meanwell TN Series

One last fan option i would like to discuss is the fan system found on the Xantrex RS & MS inverter/chargers. This product line has a unique fan set-up. It has a fan system similar to that of a desktop computer. There is an internal fan that will run continually to keep the processor cool, and a thermal exhaust fan that will engage only once the unit has been operating and heats up.

If you have any questions about thermal fans feel free to contact us.

Thanks for reading!

Seeking Pictures of Inverter Installations

2009-07-21T15:39:00.000-07:00

We are looking to do a gallery of inverter installations. We prefer that the installations be of brands that we sell (Xantrex, Samlex, Cobra, Voltec, Wagan, and Magnum). If you would like to submit a photo of your installation, please e-mail it to me at: Jon@DonRowe.Com.

Thank you and we look forward to seeing your installation.

Jon

Voltec Power Inverters

2009-07-21T15:33:00.000-07:00

DonRowe.Com is now offering the Voltec inverter line. These inverters are packed full of features and carry a lifetime limited warranty. You can find them on our website by visiting the following link:

http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/1000_5000_watt.html#Voltec

As always, if you have any questions please feel free to contact us. Thank you for visiting and have a great day.

Thanks,

Jon

DonRowe.Com on Twitter

2009-07-21T15:30:00.000-07:00

DonRowe.Com is now on Twitter. Follow us today to receive tweets about our latest specials and blowout pricing. You can also tweet us questions. We look forward to seeing you on Twitter.

Thanks,

Jon

Stand Alone Inverter vs. Inverter/Charger

2006-07-20T09:47:00.000-07:00

Stand-Alone Inverters

The stand-alone inverter is the most common type of power inverter. It functions solely as an inverter. In other words, the inverter will only take DC power from the battery and invert that power into AC power. A majority of the power inverters that you will find on the Internet are stand-alone and perform only one operation. Stand-alone inverters will range in size from as little as 75 watts all the way up to 5000 watts. Inverter pricing for this range of sizes will differ based on what features are offered. The size of inverter that will work best for you will depend on your power requirements.

Stand-alone inverter installation is relatively easy and virtually anyone can do it. A typical permanent installation should only take about 10 minutes. A temporary install should just take a few seconds. It is as simple as hooking the cables to the inverter - Positive (+) on the inverter to Positive (+) on the battery and Negative (-) on the inverter and Negative (-) on the battery. This works fine if you are doing a temporary install, however there is an additional step if you are installing the inverter permanently. Permanent installation requires the addition of an inline fuse located in the Positive (+) cable between the inverter and the battery.

Some inverters may also have the capability to be AC hardwired. What this means is that you can wire the inverter directly to an external outlet or sub panel. This type of installation will require a licensed electrician or certified installer. This will work best if you are trying to power a complete circuit so that you can use existing outlets in a cabin, boat, or RV. Some models also have a built in transfer switch that will protect the inverter from incoming AC from a generator or shore power.

Since stand-alone inverters are physically smaller then inverter/chargers they can be transferred between locations relatively easily. This portability makes the stand-alone inverter a useful device to bring with you camping or to have in case of a power outage. A typical 2000 watt inverter weighs only about 10lbs making it easy for anybody to carry.

To find out more information on specific stand-alone power inverters please visit our website at http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/inverters.html. You may also reach us by phone at 1-800-367-3019.

Inverter/Charger’s – What are they?

Inverter/chargers are all-in-one units that combine a power inverter, a battery charger, and a transfer switch into a single unit. This combination creates a convenient and functional unit that eliminates the need for multiple component installation. Inverter/chargers are designed mainly for applications in which AC power will be available from an outside source, such as shore power or a generator.

Installation of an inverter/charger is a more difficult process then that of the stand-alone inverter. It will require a professional installation by a licensed electrician or certified installer. The average person with no knowledge of AC wiring should not attempt to install an inverter/charger.

Once installed the inverter/charger is capable of operating independently. This is made possible by the inclusion of internal automatic transfer switch. The average transfer switch is capable of transferring 30-amp service, and a few are capable of transferring 50-amp service. The transfer switch is able to determine whether or not power is available from another source. If power is available from another source the inverter/charger will put itself into charge mode. This will allow the three-stage charger to turn on and start charging the batteries. When the transfer switch senses that power has been lost it switches to inverter power. This allows the inverter/charger to start supplying power for all of the loads on the AC distribution panel. Additionally, once voltage in your battery bank drops below the programmed voltage some inverter/chargers have the capability to start your generator. By utilizing an automatic generator start (AGS) the unit is able to start your generator and enable the charging function of your inverter/charger to begin. This automated function makes an inverter/charger an invaluable upgrade to any RV, boat, or home system.

Some of the inverter/chargers offer an advanced control system that gives you complete control over the inverter/charger. You are able to control everything from the low voltage shut-off to the battery charge type. They provide convenient LCD readouts and easy to understand programming guides.

Inverter/Chargers are only available in sizes above 1000 watts. We currently offer sizes ranging from 1000 to 3600 watts. Inverter/chargers are more expensive then stand-alone inverters and installation typically costs more. However, you cannot beat the convenience that they offer.

If you are looking for a simple to use system for your RV, boat, or home then you should take a look at the inverter/charger systems that we offer. You can check them out on our website at http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/inverter-charger.html. If you have questions feel free to contact us at 1-800-367-3019.

Power Inverters Featured on Trick my Truck on CMT

2006-01-03T15:14:00.000-08:00

I am pleased to announce that DonRowe.Com and Vector have teamed up to supply CMT's Trick my Truck with Vector power inverters for use on their show. At some point in the show they will show a hands on approach to installing a power inverter. Please look for our banner that will be posted in their shop. The first episodes of the show will air on Feb 3rd 2006. So tune into CMT to check it out.

2005-07-06T11:46:00.000-07:00

Using an inverter for emergency power is by far the most common use. The Hurricane season is here for those of you in the east and down south. I hope that this article will help all of you to be more prepared in the likely event that power failure occurs. Here are some helpful tips about running an inverter during a power outage.

Before you purchase an inverter you will want to take a piece of paper and a pen and write down all of the appliances that you feel are necessary to have during a power outage. After you write down all that you need to run go to each one of the appliances and look on the back or bottom for what is called the service tag. This tag will show you a few important specs that help with picking the correct size of the inverter. The first spec that you will most likely come across is the voltage this will either be 110,115, or 120vac.

In some cases you may find that the voltage is between 205vac and 240vac. You will need a special inverter to run this appliance. We will get to that later.

The next spec you will find will be the Amps. For example this should read like this 6.0a or 6.0 amps. What you will do now is take the volts lets say 115 and multiply by amps 6.0 and this will give you 690 watts. The equation should look like this Volts x Amps = Watts or in this example 115 x 6.0 = 690. Ok, Now that we got that out of the way we can start sizing an inverter that is going to work well during a power outage.

The most common inverter sold for emergency home back-up power is a 2000 watt. The reason for this is that most people want to hook them up to there car and the 2000 is perfect for most vehicles and will run most appliance's. When you hook the inverter up to your vehicle to run the inverter you will want to try to keep the inverter close to the battery and out of any weather. I get a lot of calls about why inverters sometimes won't work when they are hooked to the vehicle this way. Most people hook these up with jumper cables. This is not the best way to do this. Jumper cables do not give a proper connection to the inverter. The best way to hook them up is with a ring terminal that fits properly over the inverter post.

Next we have to cover how the battery will hold a charge. You will want to keep the vehicle running while the inverter is hooked up. This will allow the vehicles charging system to keep a charge on the battery while the inverter is in use. If the car is off the inverter will still work. However, for prolonged use the inverter will work best if the vehicle is running. This just about covers using an inverter for emergencies with a vehicle.

When using an inverter for emergency back-up power in a home without a vehicle there are a number of ways to accomplish this. First you can have say two 12 volt batteries and hook them in parallel and one inverter. This will give you enough power to run say a reproduction off and on for two days or so depending on the size of the batteries. If you decide to do this you may want to have at least one back-up battery for the system in case power failure exceeds your battery time.

The next option is for complete home back-up. This is the best option but one of the most expensive. The system will require a large bank of batteries at a higher voltage say 24 volt or 48 volt. However, they do make 12 volt systems but they are less efficient. The best batteries to use in a large bank like this are the 6 volt batteries either made for solar or golf carts. They have a much higher reserve time and are cost effective. The next component is an inverter/charger. These are great for home back-up they have three key components. The components are an inverter, a charger, and a transfer switch. They come in sizes ranging from 1500 watts to 5500 watts. The battery chargers that are included range from 70 amps to 150 amps and will charge the input DC voltage of the inverter. This system is a lot more complex then that of a inverter and battery. Most of the inverter/chargers do not have built in AC outlets and require an electrician or professional solar installer to hook them up.

The way that the inverter/charger will work is that the inverter will work when the power is off and the battery charge will charge and maintain the batteries while the power is on. Since the battery charger that is included is a three stage battery charger with smart charging capabilities it is safe to leave the batteries hooked up to this at all times. The internal transfer switch will allow for automatic switching. This means that you will not have to do anything when the power goes out. The inverter/charger will start running all of the appliances you have selected all by itself. Even though the inverter/chargers are more expensive they are much more convenient and you won't even know that the power went out.

Now that we covered the home back-up without a vehicle lets talk about 240vac appliances. Even though there are inverters that will work for this you may want to consider not running them during a power outage because of the large draw from the batteries that they have. If you must run a 240 vac appliance you will want to have a complete separate system from the 110vac inverter system that is running the common household appliances such as the refrigerator or lights.

I hope that this entry will help those of you who are faced with hurricanes and other sources of power outages. You can find a great selection of power inverters at www.donrowe.com. Any questions or comments would be appreciated.

Power Inverters and Air conditioners

2005-06-28T14:30:00.000-07:00

I get a lot of questions about running an air conditioner on a power inverter. The air conditioner is one of the hardest household appliances to run off of an inverter. The first thing to do when getting ready to run an air conditioner on an inverter is to get all of the specifications for the AC unit. The most important spec that you will need is the LRA rating. What this stands for is locked rotor amps. The LRA rating is what the AC unit will draw from the inverter while the compressor starts up. This is a very important spec when sizing an inverter for use with an AC unit. After you get this spec you will multiply it by the voltage and this will be the startup wattage needed by the inverter.

For example if your LRA is 60.6 amps if you multiply this by 115 you will get roughly 7000 watts at start-up.

The next thing to take into consideration for a AC unit is battery bank size. The best batteries that we have found that work well with inverters are the 6 volt golf cart or solar batteries. These are more cost effective and on average have higher amp hour ratings then the traditional group 27 12 volt deep cycle batteries. The 6 volt batteries will be connected in series. This will double the voltage to 12 and keep the amp hour rating the same. The inverter will see this as one big 12 volt battery. Your average 6 volt battery is 220 amp hour and sells for approx. 65.00. and your average deep cycle 12 volt battery group 27 is 115 amp hour and sells for 130.00. So if you get two of the 6 volt batteries it is twice the size at 12 volt s and you pay just about the same amount . If you want any kind of run time with a air conditioner it will require a large battery bank. I would have to say a minimum of 4 6 volt batteries wired in series to get longer then an hour. One of your best sources for the 6 volt batteries is a golf course. Reason for this is because the golf courses will really only use the battery for 6-9 months before getting rid of them.

Your next step in setting up a system for use with an AC unit is finding a sufficient recharge source for the batteries. You will want to have a minimum of a 150 amp alternator to recharge a system with a small AC. There are also many other options avaiable such as solar, wind or hydro.

This will get you started. I will post more about air conditioners and inverters as the questions come in.

Welcome to my Power Inverter Blog

2005-06-28T13:43:00.000-07:00

I welcome you to my blog. My name is Jon and I work for www.DonRowe.com. I decided that with all of the questions that I get on the phone with customers I would bring them here and post some of the more interesting ones and possibly help someone else that may be having the same problems with their power inverter. I welcome any questions that anyone may have regarding power inverters.